Nelson Region rainfall – published 20.01.12

While the heavy rains and flooding in Nelson that destroyed homes and land just before Christmas last year was headline news the impact on the wine grape growing sector has yet to be fully determined.

Rainfall statistics show some of the heaviest rain in parts of the region since records began with Nelson Airport recording six times its mean rainfall for December – 446mm while in Takaka about 1100mm of rain fell - more than 8 times its normal December total.

City residents got to feel like they were living in Auckland with the closure of one of the main arterial roads into the city for more than a week, resulting in a normal 15 minute drive taking up to three hours and the horticulture sector (particularly market gardeners) having to deal with flood damaged crops.

A photo published in The Nelson Mail showing people walking through a flooded vineyard was a dramatic visual reminder of just how much rain we had and while it probably made many winegrowers hearts sink just a little the effects of the rain on the 2012 vintage are still only best estimates at this stage.

With the main rainfalls occurring over a few days the impact of the rain on flowering and fruit-set was limited. Reports from across the region indicate the hardest hit variety is Gewurztraminer with most growers spoken to expecting no crop this year. Grape berry growth known has ‘hen and chicken’ appears as big and small grapes on each bunch. This is quite normal for the Mendoza clone of chardonnay but its occurrence in other varieties is both unusual and unwanted because the individual grapes will have different ripeness levels at harvest time and this has the potential to effect flavour profiles of the finished product.

The impact of the big wet on other varieties is very much location dependant with vineyards in some areas expecting a harvest at either near normal levels or down 20% - 40%, again dependant on how far through flowering the varieties were when the rains hit each vineyard.

Because of dangerous wet, slippery conditions on some sloping vineyards growers were unable to get equipment onto some vineyards to get disease control sprays on their vines and this has lead to some high labour costs as growers resorted to manually trimming the vigorous canopy growth to help dry the sodden bunches. One grower even resorted to using a helicopter to apply some anti-fungal sprays.

Those who were able to manage their vineyards intensely before, during and after individual rain events appear to be mainly disease free however some are reporting outbreaks of mildew in vineyards and, depending on whether or not these outbreaks can be controlled, this will also have an effect on the size and quality of the 2012 grape harvest in this region.

So it looks like this grape harvest is going to be below average in size in the Nelson region and quality is going to be highly dependent on weather patterns over the next few months. No more rain and lots of long hot days until mid May are at the top of every grower’s wish lists for 2012.

I have been drinking

Kaimira Estates has put together a deal where you can buy two $12.99 wines from their Brightside range for just $20 the pair. This deal is available at Fresh Choice Richmond and Takaka
Brightside 2011 Sauvignon Blanc – RRP$12.99
Vibrant fresh tropical flavours of passionfruit with a twist of lime are supported by firm river-stone minerality characters making it the perfect budget wine to enjoy with seafood off the barbecue this summer.
Brightside 2011 Rosé – RRP$12.99
Made from a blend of merlot and pinot noir the beautiful pale raspberry colour hints at the luscious creamy flavours of the wine. Fermentation in oak barrels adds texture to the mouthfeel and lets the blueberry and currant flavours shine. This is a serious wine for the price point and won’t disappoint rosé lovers.

Champagne – Published 09.12.11

I love champagne! I know sparkling wines made in New Zealand in the same style as those from the Champagne region, the home of bubbles in France, are very good and always rate highly in tastings but there is something just a little ethereal about the real thing I just can’t resist.
Last week I was in heaven at a champagne tasting. Imagine the chance to taste a range of champagnes from three premium producers including three that come with a price tag of over $200 a bottle with one hitting $450. Now this is way beyond my wine buying budget so it was a real treat to be able to try them and see if they are worth the money – and I can report the ultra-premium wines absolutely are worth the money if your budget can stretch to it for a special occasion. 

Casa del Vino hosted the New Zealand representatives for the fine Champagne houses Louis Roederer, Taittinger & Bollinger and each had a small selection available for tasting paired with delightful finger food prepared by Hopgood’s Restaurant.

Ju Mannering from Negociants presented two wines from Bollinger along with another couple from Ayala. The Ayala Brut Majeur NV was refined and had just enough creamy sweetness to make it oh so drinkable. With a retail value of about $100 a bottle Bollinger NV Brut is the wine we have for special celebrations and I guess because Sari and I have been to the House of Bollinger we have a soft spot for it. While we enjoy this wine having the chance to try the premium Bollinger La Grande Année 2002 Vintage Prestige (RRP$199) was too good to turn down. With a quite firm brandy character this was a sensational match with Hopgood’s chicken liver parfait.

Juliane Cormier from Eurovintage was there to present Champagnes from Louis Roederer including a stunningly good value for money sparkling wine made by them but produced at  Roederer's Californian vineyard - Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut NV (RRP $39.95). This is as good as sparkling wine gets when it isn’t made in Champagne. However for me the wine of the night was the Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 Vintage Prestige (RRP about $450). This wine is so refined and elegant that when you taste it, it simply explodes into a mouthful of champagne mousse in your mouth. I can understand why this is so expensive, it is a stunning wine.

Finally Doug Campbell from Vintners presented a range of wines from Tattinger and my favourite here was the Tatttinger Les Folies de la Marquetterie NV ($120 and 5 stars, No.1 Cuisine Magazine, Nov 2011). Beautifully rich with a touch of fruitiness and a very long dry, satisfying finish with flavours that linger in your mouth for a very long time. I think this will be the wine we see New Year in with this year because I would rather share one bottle of excellent wine than three bottles of good wine.

All of these wines are available at Casa del Vino along with some very fine New Zealand made sparkling wines. Ann has something for everyone to celebrate with this holiday season.

I have been drinking

te Pa 2011 Sauvignon Blanc - RRP$19.95 - $21.95
This first release from the MacDonald family owned vineyard has set a very high benchmark. It has just been awarded 5 stars and named the top wine for the Cuisine magazine 2001 Sauvignon tasting following on from a Blue Gold award at the Sydney Top 100 wine competition. Intense citrus aromas are reflected in the flavours where crisp lime and passionfruit characters dominate while the very long finish has a first burst of minerality. A stunning wine for the price.

Mahi Boundary Farm 2010 Sauvignon Blanc – RRP$29.00

Fermention in French oak barrels using wild yeasts then aged for a further 11 months in the oak makes this a complex, seductive little temptress with power and weight to impress. Soft nut tones compliment the lime and capsicum characters nicely. This style of sauvignon blanc can be aged quite happily for a few more years.

Sauvignon Blanc – Published 28.10.11

The success of the New Zealand wine industry is based solely on one variety – sauvignon blanc. Sure there are plenty of other varieties grown in New Zealand and our winemakers have developed a huge reputation worldwide for the quality of most varieties they turn their hand to but without sauvignon blanc the world wouldn’t know about or rieslings, pinot noirs, chardonnays, syrahs, merlots, sparkling wines or the many other wine styles produced here. Make no mistake, sauvignon blanc is the backbone, the workhorse and shining star of New Zealand’s wine industry. It accounts for more than 50% of all vines planted and more than 50% of all wines made here, but not every sauvignon is the same; if you buy a sauvignon blanc made in Marlborough then chances are it will have very similar characters, but if you buy one from the Awatere Valley or the Wairau Valley you will find the base sauvignon characters of freshness and zesty acidity are the same as those from the Waihopai Valley but the flavour profiles are quite different.
Comparing sauvignon from these sub-regions is like comparing Nelson sauvignon blanc with Marlborough sauvignon blanc – the same variety but different flavours because the climate and soil structures they are produced in are different.
When we drink sauvignon blanc I think we expect one of two styles, either ripe tropical fruit based characters or juicy gooseberry characters but there are also many variables on these base flavours. Winemakers have been trying to make something that stands out from the crowd by employing a few winemaking techniques to change the texture of the wine and create subtle flavour differences. Fermenting or aging the wine in old oak barrels or letting the wine sit on yeast lees for a while adds a touch of richness to the texture of the wine while letting the grapes ripen a little longer on the vine will soften the acidity noticeably. The trick is making sure the wine still tastes like sauvignon blanc from New Zealand.
One of the latest party tricks winemakers have pulled from the hat is to make a sparkling sauvignon blanc. Again this can be made in a number of styles, medium styles made from riper fruit can have tropical fruit characters and other flavours just like standard sauvignon - but with bubbles. Harvest the fruit less ripe and with lower sugar levels as is done when making champagne and you will find the wine is dry with quite firm herbaceous characters.
In 2008 not only was the vintage challenging because of the weather but it was a huge, record setting harvest. In 2011 we have seen another huge sauvignon blanc crop but this time the quality of the finished wines has generally been outstanding. A number of great examples have crossed my doorstep this year so check out my blog regularly for more of my thoughts on 2011 sauvignon blancs.

I have been drinking

12,000 Miles 2010 Pinot Noir – RRP $26.00
Rich cooked black cherry flavours are balanced beautifully with charred oak and a touch of herbal spice. Made by Gladstone Vineyards in the Wairarapa region the wine is a delightful expression of regional characteristics with a little help from the winemaker to turn it into something quite delicious.

Maui Sauvignon Blanc – RRP $17.00 - $18.00
This strolled away with the trophy for best sauvignon blanc at the 2011 New Zealand International Wine Awards. Made from Marlborough fruit this has everything a great sauvignon needs – crisp, zesty yet juicy acidity that comes from perfectly ripe fruit and then layer after layer of flavour in the palate. From bright gooseberry to lush pineapple and passionfruit. A real treat. Check www.tikiwine.com to find out more.

Anchorage Wines – published 30.09.11

When the Drummond family decided to convert their apple orchards to vineyards in the early 2000’s the wine industry was booming, the economy was growing like crazy and people had plenty of spare cash to enjoy the finer things in life. Creating Anchorage Wines was a sound business decision at the time and while we all knew the bubble had to burst at some stage no one expected all the negative forces to line up with such devastating impact on a single industry. Fortunately the Drummond’s had decided to target the middle ground with their product and while times have been tough, with their vineyards reaching full production just in time to coincide with a bumper 2008 vintage and a downturn, no let’s say plummet, in the world economy they have weathered the storm by delivering good quality wine at a great price.
While the downturn meant selling wine at about the cost of production with very little or no margin for a couple of years Anchorage has always delivered on quality.
Winemaker Justin Papesch has the luxury of selecting fruit from different vineyards from which to craft his product each year. Vineyards at Lower Moutere, Riwaka and beside the Motueka River have quite different climate conditions and soil structures so Anchorage is able to deliver wines with distinct vineyard characters that make the most of each variety.
The Motueka site is located at the mouth of the Motueka River so the soils are quite light, stony and free draining and the Riwaka sites have a similar soil structure while the Lower Moutere site has a top layer of stone filled clay with gravel below that. In 2011 it was decided that the sauvignon blanc fruit from the Motueka River site was delivering the flavours and structure that best represents the Anchorage Wines style for this variety so that is the fruit that went into the Anchorage sauvignon blanc.
Anchorage wines don’t pretend to be $50 wines but they often deliver flavour and quality well above their price range of between $17 and $22. Take the Anchorage 2010 Pinot Noir Rose (RRP $18) as an example; bursting with lush creamy raspberry aromas with rich fruit, a touch of vanilla and minerality in the flavours this is a dangerously easy wine to drink. And you will often find it on special for about $15.
I was particularly impressed with the Anchorage 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (RRP$20). Justin has a soft spot for chardonnays made with the use of seasoned oak as well as new oak barrels. This wine is made in a big, full style but is beautifully balanced with rich peaches and cream flavours and some nice lime freshness in the finish.
Next time you see Anchorage Wines at your favourite wine retailer don’t be shy about picking up a bottle and putting it in your shopping bag, you won’t be buying a premium wine but you will be buying a wine that delivers great flavour and very good value.

I have been drinking

Villa Sandi Prosecco il Fresco DOC (Italy) - $24 at Casa del Vino
Many Proseccos can be quite sweet but while this version has lovely ripe fruit flavours and a modest 11% alcohol it is delightfully dry. The fresh acidity in the finish balances the residual sugar nicely. Fantastic drinking late on a sunny afternoon.

Blackenbrook 2009 Riesling – RRP $23
Selected as one of the wines to represent Nelson in the 1^st XV Competition this went on to win the Best Riesling award. Exceptional balance is the key to this finely crafted wine. With intensely floral aromas and a backbone of fine minerality we see in many Blackenbrook wines this wine not only represents everything great about the 2009 vintage but also the dedication to quality at Blackenbrook. Be like me, by some for the cellar, you won’t regret it.

Recent Awards - Published 16.09.11

Wine shows are important for the wine industry for a couple of reasons. Firstly because winning a medal and, in particular, a gold medal or trophy means producers get to put a nice shiny sticker on the bottles they are trying to entice you and me to buy. A medal of any colour is a general indication that the wine is of good quality, it may not necessarily be to your taste but it should be a good example of the variety. The second key reason for those in the industry is it lets producers benchmark their product against other wines; as all judging is blind (the judges don’t know whose wine they are tasting) and because judges at wine shows are generally all very experienced, have palates that are able to detect small nuances in wines and are able to express why they prefer one wine over another it is fair to say wine producers find out very quickly whether or not their wines are up to generally accepted industry standards.However we also need to remember that not every winery enters wine competitions, either because they have already established a great name for themselves in the market place and or because of the expense. By the time a winery pays to enter the competition which can be expensive, sends several bottles of each wine entered and then have the cost of attending an awards dinner if they are in the running for a trophy of some sort it is not a cheap exercise.

On top of that some competitions insist you have a certain amount of wine available for sale after the awards and many small wineries simply don’t make the volume of wine required so are excluded from entering by default.

Having said all of that Nelson wineries have performed exceptionally well in the recent round of wine shows, especially for aromatic style wines. Gold medals for sauvignon blanc, riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot noir and syrah are very good results but two trophies for Riesling is simply exciting. Kaimira Estates Iti Selection Brightwater Riesling 2011 (low alcohol) was the Champion Riesling at the New Zealand International Wine Show while Brightwater Vineyards Nelson Riesling 2011was the Champion Riesling at the Bragato Wine Awards. And let’s not forget Seifried Estate winning three gold medals in the same show for three different rieslings, a fantastic achievement.

For one of New Zealand’s smallest wine producing regions the wineries here certainly punch well above their weight. About 3% of New Zealand’s wine is made here but the region won 4.5% of gold medals awarded (200) at the NZ International Wine Show that attracted entries from around the world and 16% (51 awarded) at the Bragato Wine Awards.

On a local note the fiercely competed for Colin Harrison Memorial Trophy for this region’s best Chardonnay was awarded to Rimu Grove’s 2010 Chardonnay, one to look forward to when it is released later in the year.

Over the next few columns I will have a look at the award winning wines, let’s start with

Waimea Estates 2011 Sauvignon Blanc - $19.00

Bursting with pungent floral aromas of white peach and passionfruit with a palate that is full, rich and fruity with lashings of crisp lime flavours to balance the fullness of the passionfruit characters. With a long juicy finish this wine certainly deserves its gold medal status.

Kahurangi Estate Mt Arthur Reserve Chardonnay 2010 - $22.00

There is nothing shy and delicate about this old fashioned beast. Flavours are packed with big oak characters with lovely creamy butterscotch flavours, a dusting of oak toast and some lovely herbal characters all beautifully balanced and wrapped up in a lusciously rich texture.

Melbourne & Mornington

Our interest was tweaked a few weeks ago by an ad we saw in the newspaper for the King Tutankhamun exhibition at the Melbourne Museum. A quick phone call to travel agent Tim and before we knew it we were on a plane to the land of Oz for a long weekend. And the fact there are a couple of fantastic wine regions within an hour or so of Melbourne had absolutely nothing to do with deciding to go! We stayed in the centre of the city so we would be close to many of those delightful restaurants we hear so much about and of course they also have shops there that needed visiting.
We only had a few days so we dedicated one day to wine, we rented a car for the day and headed to the Mornington Peninsula where there are about 200 wineries and 50 cellar door outlets you can visit. Because we had a day that meant we also had a problem – so many wines to taste and so little time! The delightful people at the Mornington township I-Site visitor centre helped us plan a day that took in some great wines and ensured we were well fed.
By the time we travelled from Melbourne (about 75 minutes) we had time for lunch and to visit three or four wineries. We decided to have lunch at Port Phillip Estate where they not only have a fantastic restaurant but some excellent wines too.
With a climate not dissimilar to Nelson the wines produced in the region include chardonnay, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, arneis and pinot noir so it was an interesting exercise to compare their wines with ours.
At Port Phillip Estate we really enjoyed their Chardonnays, in particular the Kooyong Estate 2008 (A$38) and the single vineyard 2008 Faultline Chardonnay (A$60). From the selection of pinot noirs available my favourite and the most expensive (of course) at A$65 was their Single Vineyard Haven 2008 Pinot Noir. While this is still a young wine it is packed with rich, meaty, savoury berry fruit flavours with a hit of liquorice in the finish. The restaurant at Port Phillip Estate is a fine dining experience with food that would not be out of place in a top restaurant in any city and service that was faultless.

Stunning food in a stunning environment at Port Phillip Estate Restaurant

A grey winter's day at Port Phillip Estate

Stunning architectural design at Port Phillip Estate tasting room and restuarant

On a much smaller scale Main Ridge Estate was established in 1975 by Rosalie and Nat White and every drop of juice that finds its way into a bottle there comes from their own small vineyard. Producing predominantly chardonnay and pinot noir with some pinot meunier and merlot completing the range and a dedication to quality the wines are very good. When we were there the merlot had sold out and other wines were available in limited quantities (on bottle per person) such is the popularity of these wines. Top of my list was the 2009 Half Acre Pinot Noir (A$65), a wine packed with flavour concentration and character. This is boutique wine making of a very high standard.
A long weekend break in Melbourne can be quite cheap if you keep your eyes open for good deals on flights. We will be back and we will be spending more than a day in the Mornington Peninsula wine region next time.
Check out www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org

I have been drinking

Kina Beach 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (about $16)
With vibrant tropical fruit aromas and a smooth textured mouthfeel this is a luscious and spicy wine packed with passionfruit and stonefruit flavours and juicy fresh acidity in the finish this is almost too easy to drink.

Blackenbrook Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 ($39)
Another five star wine from a five star producer. This is still a very young wine with appealing concentrated spiced red/black cherry flavours, a touch of gaminess and silky tannins this is another beauty from the talented Daniel Schwarzenbach.

Milcrest

The 2011 grape harvest was looking like one of the best for many years until Mother Nature stuck her nose in and delivered rain at just the wrong time for some growers. Those whose crop was ready to harvest early have been lucky enough to beat the rain with Blackenbrook Vineyards, Seifried Estates and Waimea Estates among those to celebrate but for growers in areas where ripening is a little slower the news is not so great; not a disaster but a good vintage rather than a classic vintage and some varieties have been effected more than others.
One producer who has had a bit of a baptism by fire since they entered the industry is Milcrest Wines. Not only was their very first vintage in 2008 (another wet vintage) but they have launched a new label when there has been a glut of wine in the market place, further compounded by the economic downturn.
But Terry Milton just chuckles, says ‘what can you do about it’ and he and Christine Cook have instead focussed on the future. Having established their vineyard they are now working hard on establishing the Milcrest Estate label in the market place. Early results from this fledgling operation are not only promising but they are quite exciting.
Having picked up a handful of silver and bronze medals, almost sold out of some wines and with a couple of beauties from the 2010 vintage yet to be released things are looking good. And to top it off their fruit has not been impacted too much by the rain this year. The location of the Milcrest vineyard in Haycock Road (at the bottom of the Hope foothills) has proved to be perfect for growing grapes. Plenty of sun, a slight elevation, exposure to a gentle breeze and protection from the hills means they have a little micro-climate that helps deal with any rain. Hard work in the vineyard managing the leaf canopy also helps.
Among the wines on offer are an dry, rich and spicy 2009 pinot gris ($22.50) that is outstanding with seafood – try it with sushi at Sachi Sushi in New St. With silver and 2 bronze medals in its very first vintage I think these guys are on to a winner with this style of wine.
Chardonnay has been a little out of favour with wine drinkers in recent years so Terry and Christine only made 150 cases but it has been so popular they only have a few cases of their Reserve Chardonnay ($26.50) left. This is a bright, lively wine that has a luscious texture and beautifully balanced flavours of peach, subtle burnt cream and a touch of spicy oak.
They have an award winning pinot noir ($25.50) and another not yet released that I am sure will add to the Milcrest medal tally. A 5 star quality (in my opinion) cool climate Syrah ($34.95) is a cracker - full, ripe and succulent with plum, pepper and subtle herb flavours.
Visit the cellar door at Milcrest Estate in Haycock Road and check out their website (http://www.milcrestestate.co.nz/) to find out more.

I have been drinking

Running With Bulls 2009 Tempranillo - $19.99 at FreshChoice
With cooler days we start looking for warming wines and this powerful brut from the Barossa fits the bill perfectly. Deep, rich plum red in colour with big spicy blackberry, tamarillo and cigar box flavours to match. Without being sweet and jammy this delivers on both flavour and great value for money.

Sacred Hill 2010 Hawke’s Bay Merlot Cabernet - $21.99 (RRP)
This very young red wine with elegant, complex flavours already has a silver medal under its belt. Plum, red berry fruit, liquorice and a floral touch in the palate with firm tannins and a touch of juicy acidity make it the ideal early winter warmer.

Biodynamic Winemaking

When people ask questions about biodynamic winemaking for the first time and are told about some of the more esoteric principles of this form of growing grapes most probably think ‘Cosmic rays, lunar cycles, cow horns filled with cow dung and buried in the ground, what the heck is this all about?’
However, leave what many consider the slightly weird parts of biodynamics aside and the principles not only make sense they are actually quite easy to follow. In its absolute simplest form biodynamics is taking organic production to the next step, focusing on improving soil and therefore plant health by encouraging and enhancing the development of naturally occurring bio-organisms in the soil structure.
I knew a little about this form of winemaking but wanted to know more so last week I spent a couple of hours walking around the only fully certified biodynamic vineyard in the region with David Holmes the former owner who is now back in the vineyard helping current owner Lars Jensen and Jon Harrey from Te Mania Wines move their vineyards to the next level. In Te Mania’s case this means full BioGro Organic certification and for the Richmond Plains label it means full Bio-dynamic certification.
At the heart of the vineyard is the compost heap. Any gardener will tell you good compost is great for the garden so a good compost heap in the vineyard makes sense. Obviously it would take a huge amount of compost to spread around a vineyard like you do in your garden at home and this is where the biodynamic wizardry takes place. Compost is developed in a number of forms, from cow dung in horns buried in the ground to fermenting compost in water with some biodynamic ‘super’ additives. These super additives are naturally occurring fungi and micro-organisms in concentrated form and the various composts we had a looked at were literally teeming with worms and other bugs doing their work creating a highly concentrated biodynamic compound.
To spread this around the vineyard about 100kg of compost is soaked in about 400 litres of water for 24 hours and then spread around the vineyard via the drip irrigation system in the vineyard. As to the cow horns, well it turns out they are a great vessel to develop super intense forms of biodynamic compounds to use as additives in the final compost mix – nothing spooky about this even if it does sound a little strange.
So what difference does it make to the wine? Firstly because of the reliance on natural growing conditions the wines truly reflect the growing environment where the weather conditions have the final say therefore each vintage will be a reflection of the weather conditions during the year. Secondly the lack of manipulation means there are no chemical, pesticide or herbicide residues in the finished product, something the Japanese have jumped on with them buying almost all of Richmond Plains biodynamic certified 2010 sauvignon blanc.
I still haven’t got my head around some of the more esoteric aspects of biodynamic winemaking but if they make as much sense as encouraging a healthy soil structure then maybe they aren’t as weird as some people think.

I have been drinking

Ti Point Chardonnay 2010 - RRP$21
Made from fruit grown in Hawke’s Bay this wine has layers of flavour that very gently encourage you to want just one more taste. Toasted nut aromas, a creamy texture up front with fresh lime crispness in the finish that round out softly spiced stonefruit flavours. A summer delight.

Ellero 2008 Central Otago Pinot Noir - RRP$36
With plenty of mouthwatering ripe acidity this wine has classic spiced red cherry flavours with a fine tannin backbone. If you want to try this and other wines from Ellero before you buy then pop into Casa del Vino of Saturday 26th where Roberta from Ellero wines will have them open for tasting

Woollaston Estates

I first met Philip and Chan Woollaston when Philip was Mayor of Nelson in the early 1990’s and we soon discovered we had a mutual love of wine. For me this turned into writing about it but for Philip and Chan a small hobby vineyard on the banks of the Wai-iti River at Brightwater has grown into a huge enterprise that is now housed in a state-of-the-art facility in the Moutere Hills at Mahana.
Woollaston’s website says “Philip and Chan met Glenn and Renée Schaeffer and discovered they shared a vision of creating an estate where fine wines would be crafted. They also share a love of art, literature and the Nelson landscape, so their dream was to develop a winery that was not only highly functional, but was also sensitive to the natural aesthetic of the area and reflected their creative passion.”
They are now into their 7th vintage at the new facility and the vineyards are about ten years old so as wine producers they are starting to reach maturity and this maturity is reflected in the wines they now produce.
With vine age comes flavour depth and complexity and Andrew Sutherland and his team in the winery have learnt all about the idiosyncrasies of the four-level gravity fed winemaking facility. With three vineyards in different locations in the region under their ownership viticulturist Julian Coakley has the ability to grow varieties in soil types and climate conditions that best suit each variety. Moving to full BioGro organic certification means more options are opened up to the winemaking team.
I recently had the opportunity to explore the range of wines offered under the Woollaston Estates label (they also produce wines under the Tussock and Mahana labels) and the current releases show how this organisation has developed over the years. The Woollaston Estates 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($18) has ripe tropical fruit aromas with underlying fresh herbal characters. The palate delivers vibrant tropical fruits (zesty pineapple and limes) with crisp acidity that seems to last forever in the finish. This is a style I love.
Their Rose ($17) has been both very good and very popular for many years and for the followers of this wine you will not be disappointed by the 2010 version. Made from Pinot Noir grapes the delicate salmon pink colour hints at the elegance of the aromas but belies the dry, spicy richness of the flavours.
Having selected a vineyard site specifically to grow pinot noir grapes it is no surprise Woollaston Estates has a couple of beauties in their stable. The 2008 vintage ($35) is packed with summer berry fruit and lush licorice flavours that are nicely complemented with delicate smoky oak characters. Fine grained tannins add an elegant texture.
While Philip has stepped back from the day-to-day operation of the company that bears his name he is still a director and from his house perched on the edge of the picturesque Mahana vineyard continues to take a keen interest in the business and is still passionate about the ‘hobby vineyard’ he and Chan started in 1993.
Watch future columns for my thoughts on other Woollaston Estates Wines.

I have been drinking
Yalumba Sangiovese Rose - $18 but $11.99 on special at Nelson City Freshchoice
From South Australia this has a dry finish but is loaded with sweet, ripe cherry fruit flavours with a twist of spice. Great value chilled summer drinking.

Seifried Estates 2009 Winemaker’s Collection Gewurztraminer – RRP $23
Seifried’s Sweet Agnes Riesling has picked up so many national and international trophies it is almost embarrassing but don’t overlook the outstanding quality of other wines in the range. This gewurztraminer is a pure delight; rich, seductive exotic fruit and fresh ginger aromas, intense lychee, apricot and spice flavours all balanced with linger fresh acidity. It deserves every one of the 4 ½ stars Michael Cooper awarded this wine.

Nelson Ark

One of the fantastic things about the wine industry is the amount of support they give the local community. In the past I have talked about wineries that support the arts and other sectors but there is one business that is supporting a very cool community project – The Nelson ARK.
I am a bit of a softie when it comes to animals (as our two dogs and two cats can testify) and I think these guys are doing a great job not only for animals but for people too. The Nelson ARK (a Charitable Trust) is a community centre which houses a fully functioning no-kill animal rescue shelter.
Its website says that “youth-at-risk and older people are brought together with the animals, as volunteers or participants to help each other in a variety of educational rehabilitative and integrative programmes. The Nelson ARK believes that joining these groups together in a meaningful and caring endeavour will benefit not only the animal and human participants but will have positive effects for the entire community. Our APART (Animals, People And Rehabilitative Training) programme, which is based on successful programmes in the US and Canada, brings together young people, older people as mentors, and animals in an intensive training environment. Dog training teaches the value of patience, discipline and hard work. It also offers young people the opportunity to learn co-operative ways of dealing with problems in the training which will in turn provide alternative coping strategies in their own life. The programmes give youth an opportunity to participate in positive, rewarding experiences where respect for themselves, other people and animals is reinforced.”
So what has this got to do with wine? Well the guys at Richmond Plains are supporting this great programme by donating 20% of all sales from specially labeled bottles of their sauvignon blanc to the Nelson ARK. This isn’t some gimmick to get rid of surplus wine, Michael Cooper gave this wine four stars and it is one of their top selling wines; I love the classic, ripe Nelson sauvignon characters.
At a time of the year when we all think about others and donate to causes like the food bank I think it is fantastic someone is thinking about the animals in our community so when you see bottles with photo’s of dogs on the label at Fresh Choice Richmond and Nelson, and New World Nelson remember that 20% is going to help this great initiative. You can also buy it from Richmond Plains winery in McShane Road. The perfect Christmas gift if you are looking for something for clients or friends.

I have been drinking
We tasted these wines with our friends Nic and Tim so for a change I thought I would tell you what someone else thinks as well as my thoughts.

Sacred Hill Halo Hawke’s Bay Syrah – RRP $24.90
The colour is dark, deep inky red and the flavours are bursting with intense blackberry characters without being sweet and jammy. Layers of black pepper, lashings of elegant oak spice and firm but easy-to-manage tannins make for a complete wine experience and Nic says it is too easy to drink (as he enjoyed more than one glass) and is exceptional buying at this price. You will find it at premium wine outlets or go to www.sacredhill.com

Julicher Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc – RRP $18.75
Produced from Martinborough fruit this is similar to a Nelson style sauvignon rather than a Marlborough style. The palate is rich and textural with lush tropical fruit and citrus characters. Ripe fruit acidity ensures it is juicy in the mouth without being harsh. Tim managed to get to the bottom of the bottle (with a little help) and asked if there was any more.

Golden Hills

Nestled in the foothills at the northern end of Waimea West is one of the most delightful vineyards in the region - Golden Hills Estates.
Geoff and Sophie Marr set out to establish more than a simple productive wine venture, they wanted to create something special for people to enjoy, and even though it is still a work in progress the vineyards are a delight to spend some time in.
It may not be obvious when you arrive at the tasting room that is located at the business end of the property near sheds and other areas still under development. But take a stroll around the outside of the house and enjoy the views across the gently sloping vineyards to the lake below. The bones of a deck over the lake are in place and when time permits Geoff and Sophie will get it finished, hopefully in the not too distant future.
Another feature of the vineyard is the wide spacing between the rows. Geoff says this is for a couple of key reasons; firstly they wanted to get a full size tractor on the sloping land so they can operate safely. Secondly they lay a reflective cloth between the rows to increase the temperature in the vineyard at key times of the year – at flowering time and prior to harvest to help ripen the fruit. Wide row spacing not only makes it easier to lay and pick up the cloth but also allows more sunlight to penetrate between the vines. An unintended benefit is that is makes it easier for visitors to stroll around the vineyard when it is safe to do so.
When the Marrs bought the property in 2002 they planted avocado trees and as well as producing avocados for sale they also tree ripen a large volume for pressing to make avocado oil.
Then they met Trevor Bolitho from Waimea Estates who encouraged them to establish a vineyard - so they did. However not satisfied with just growing varieties considered normal at the time they also planted a few rows of an Italian variety, Dolcetto, and this has proved to be a very successful variety for them.
The Marrs are delivering Dolcetto under the Golden Hills label along with their award winning sauvignon blanc and pinot gris as well as a pinot noir, syrah and merlot.
They also want share the environment they have created and welcome visitors who want to have a picnic beside the lake or even ride their horses around the 30 acre property. Before you turn up with your horse give them a call to make sure it is safe to have them in the vineyard. Have a look at www.goldenhillsestates.co.nz

I have been drinking

Golden Hills Estates 2010 Sauvignon Blanc - $20
The 2009 edition of this wine won a Blue Gold medal at the Sydney Top 100 wine awards last year and the pedigree is reflected in this edition. As the back label says “a fruit salad of flavours” with gooseberry and grapefruit characters and a touch of minerality in the finish to balance the fresh, mouthwatering acidity. Perfect summer drinking.

Neudorf Vineyards 2009 Moutere Chardonnay - $55 at the cellar door
This wine has cult status, even when chardonnay has been out of favour with many wine drinkers, and is regularly rated as one of the very best chardonnays not only in New Zealand but in the world. If you are a regular buyer of this wine you won’t be disappointed with the 2009 vintage. Sparkling pale gold in colour with refined warm biscuit and floral aromas that hint at the complexity of the flavours. Full flavoured yet elegantly refined, the winemaking team at Neudorf has delivered another super wine. A small crop means small volumes of this so get yours quickly because it will sell out once again.

Wine & Food Matching

When we start talking about wine and food matching it can get more than a little confusing and I often see people’s eyes glaze over, however the more you try it the better at it you will get.

There is one very general rule that the wine and food matching beginner can follow and that is ‘white wine with white meat and seafood and red wine with red meat’. This is a great place to start but if you don’t like red wine you will need to find a white that can work with red meat and that is where the fun starts.

When you start thinking beyond ‘white with white and red with red’ I recommend thinking on a regional basis. For me it makes sense that foods grown in a particular area will work well with wines grown and produced in the same climate. Once again this is a very general rule but is a good place to start.

It makes sense that in Marlborough where sauvignon blanc is the dominant regional wine it is likely to work well with green shell mussels, the dominant seafood produced in the region. Then if you consider what foods were produced successfully in Marlborough before grapes dominated the landscape then it makes sense that lamb and cherries are good matches with pinot noir, another wine produced to a high standard in Marlborough.

Consider Hawke’s Bay and the best wines in my opinion are the fuller style red wines, syrah and merlot in particular but chardonnay is also a successful variety in the region. Some of the country’s best beef is produced in the region and fuller style reds work very well with beef. As an alternative a fuller style chardonnay also works well with beef.

Nelson is New Zealand’s largest seafood port and the aromatic style wines produced here like pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and riesling are a good match with seafood. Give me a dozen sweet, succulent Nelson scallops with a flavour packed pinot gris and I am in heaven. Nelson also produces a wide range of pip fruits and berry fruits as well as lamb so if you are thinking about an apple based dessert consider a fruiter style riesling to pair with it.

In Central Otago rabbits used to rule the landscape so it is no surprise that the pinot noir grown there works well with rabbit. Stonefruits like apricots grown in the region work well with riesling, a variety that performs also well there. We also relate fantastic cherries with Central Otago and cherry flavours are often found in pinot noir.

Are you starting to get the idea? These are very basic guidelines because each region can produce a wide range of foods and wine styles but if you want to explore wine and food matching then regional thinking isn’t a bad place to start.

I have been drinking.

Trinity Hill 2008 Arneis
A specialty of the Piedmont region in the North West of Italy where the variety was saved from extinction this is a floral delight. With spicy characters reminiscent of gewurztraminer with lean, minerality in the mid-palate this is an aromatic wine that is drinking beautifully right now and is worth searching for.

Petit Bourgeois 2008 Sauvignon Blanc
Don’t expect this Loire Valley, France wine to taste like a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The flavours are fresh and green in character. By ‘green’ I mean flavours like green table grapes and nettles rather than unripe grapes. Without harsh acidity but with lovely powdery minerality this is a great apperitf.

Wine releases

In the wine world we live in these days there is a continual stream of new wines being released by producers all year round, some are sent to market while they are young and fresh while winemakers retain some for release later in the year when the wines have spent a little time resting in bottles.

Red wines in particular are generally released a year or more after being bottled and many winemakers like to make us wait until the flavour and structure components are a little more in sync with each other before we get our hands on varieties like chardonnay and riesling. When they are initially bottled some components dominate others and letting the wine age a little before release gives the wine a chance to show what it is really made of.

Each year there is a race to see who can get the first sauvignon blanc onto the shelves, a practice I am not particularly fond of because I don’t think the wine is being released when it is ready. Some of these wines are ok but they will never be great. Last year we saw a few sauvignon blancs made from grapes harvested in late March and early April hitting the shelves in June, in my opinion way too soon. August, September and October saw a slew of 2009 wines leaving wineries and heading for the shelves and about the same time we started seeing a number of 2008 red wines being offered for sale.

However Neudorf Vineyards always release the sauvignon blanc they make in one year at the beginning of March the following year, just before they start harvesting the next vintage. Why? The complex, weighty style of sauvignon blanc they make takes a little time to reach its peak drinking potential and the Finns want you to enjoy their wines at their best.

Just over 10% of the Neudorf Vineyards 2009 sauvignon blanc ($22) was fermented on old oak barrels to add some texture complexity and the result is a sauvignon with a luscious viscosity to the texture as well as bright fresh tropical fruit flavours.

With the cooler weather we have had this summer the 2010 harvest is running about two weeks late so this year most of the region’s winemakers will get to enjoy Easter working 24/7 in the vineyards and wineries while you and I get to enjoy the early autumn sun. Even though the season is running a little late with an overall slightly lower yield this year (not a bad thing with an oversupply of some varieties) all reports point to fantastic quality in the vineyards.

I have been drinking



Woven Stone Ohau 2009 Sauvignon Blanc – RRP $16-17

This is the first vintage of this wine made from grapes grown near the Ohau river on the Kapiti Coast north of Wellington. Green capsicum tones dominate the aromas and blend delightfully with green apples and passionfruit in the palate. Mouth-watering acidity and a flash of flinty minerality make it dangerously easy to drink.

Neudorf Vineyards 2008 Moutere Pinot Noir - $49 from the cellar door


This wine is made from a blend of fruit grown on Neudorf Vineyards home vineyard and from a small block of vines in Pomona Road and the result is a seductive delight with flavours and textures that flow through your palate. Upfront spiced cherry fruit flavours with a touch of charred oak give way to floral violet tones then the talcum fine tannins and a touch of juicy acidity take over. This wine is very young but has all the hallmarks of a quality pint noir.

Brightwater Vineyards - 10 year tasting of sauvignon blanc

Overall comments

The biggest thing to come from this vertical tasting is the difference between wines sealed with a cork and those sealed with a screwcap. There was quite a bit of bottle variance and advanced age characters in the wines sealed with cork while vintage characters were more obvious in those sealed with a screwcap. This type of closure has let the wines age gently and retain many vibrant characters, avoiding oxidation characters.

2000 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (cork)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards 
Pale straw colour. Crisp dry Sauvignon with summer hedgerow aromas featuring honeydew melon and passionfruit flavours backed by dry grass, followed by a lingering clean apple finish. A full-bodied wine with good texture and mouthfeel.
• 94/100 points – James Halliday
• Gold medal – Bragato Wine Awards, August 2000
• 4 Stars - Winestate Magazine, 2001
• 4 Stars – Michael Cooper
• Silver Medal – New Zealand Wine Society Royal Easter Wine Show, 2001
• 3½ Stars - Wine Star Magazine, 2000
• 3 Stars - Cuisine Annual, 2001
• Excellence Award – Taste Nelson Wine Awards, January 2001
• Bronze medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, 2000
Neil's 2010 comments
Bright, fresh herbaceous aromas, lovely rounded mouthfeel with an elegant palate weight and soft acidity. Flavours reminicient of viognier/pear characters. Standing up incredibly well and still delightful drinking.

2001 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (cork)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. “Aromas of passionfruit and ripe melon introduce a full-bodied wine with good texture and mouthfeel. Heaps of fresh fruit aromas with that characteristic dry grass finish of Sauvignon Blanc.”
 • Blue-Gold medal – Sydney International Wine Competition, October 2001
• 4½ Stars - Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2001
• Silver medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, October 2001
• Silver medal – Liquorland top 100 Wine Competition, August 2001
• Excellence Award – Taste Nelson Wine Awards, January 2002
• Bronze medal – Bragato Wine Awards, August 2001
Neil's 2010 comments
My original tasting notes for this wine remark on the wonderful balance. Unfortunately New Zealand received a shocking batch of corks in 2001 and many wines were ruined. These poor quality corks lead to the screwcap revolution in 2002. When trying this wine each bottled opened was quite different, either showing advanced oxidation or corked characters. A real pity because based on the way the 2000 vintage has stood the test of time this 2001 would have been another very good wine if it wasn't for poor quality closures. Hooray for screwcap closures!


2002 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (cork)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. This is a fresh aromatic wine with intense passionfruit and honeydew melon flavours. Full-bodied and dry with complex dry grass characters and green hazelnut undertones, finishing with crisp apple acidity and fine length.
• 4 ½ Stars – Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2002
• 4 Stars – Recommended by Cuisine Magazine October 2002
• Silver medal – Bragato Wine Awards, September 2002
• Bronze medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, November 2002
Neil's 2010 comments
Citrus lemon/lime aromas with honey dew melon charaters in the medium weighted palate. Riverstone flinty charaters in the texture with a nice salty mid-palate burst. This flintiness and saltiness runs through the entire vertical range and creates a familial feel to the range. This wine is another that is still drinking very nicely.


2003 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (cork)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Warm straw colour. “This aromatic wine has aged well and is now showing the classic aged Sauvignon characters of asparagus and canned peas. Full bodied and dry with a long savoury finish”
• Silver medal – Bob Campbell, Home and Entertaining Magazine, March 2004
• Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine, Bob Campbell’s Top 100 Wines under $20.00
• 3 ½ Stars – Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2004
• 3 ½ Stars – Winestate Magazine November 2004
• Bronze medal – Bragato Wine Awards, September 2003
• Bronze medal – London International Wine Challenge 2004
• Bronze medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, November 2003
• Bronze medal – Liquorland Top 100 Wine Competition, August 2003
Neil's 2010 comments
Age and alcohol characters startiung to become ovious in the aromas with a touch of freshness in the backgroud. The palate is still showing crisp acidity with a touch of greenness. Quite an austere wine with a long, dry mineral textured finish.



2004 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (screwcap)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. “Intense aromas of gooseberries and passionfruit introduce this fresh, aromatic full bodied wine. The palate combines excellent texture and mouthfeel with complex melon and citrus flavours, finishing with that lingering classic dry grass character of Sauvignon Blanc.”
• 3 ½ Stars – Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2005
• Bronze medal – Bragato Wine Awards, September 2004
• Bronze medal – Canberra National Wine Show, November 2004
• Bronze medal – New Zealand International Wine Show 2005
 Neil's 2010 comments
The aromas here are almost aged chardonnay in character. Soft asparagus and delicate lime flavours lead into a long finish with plwenty of ripe, juicy acidity. The screwcap advantage shows immediately. 2004 was a wet and difficult vintage in Nelson and I am sure this wine would not be holding up as well as it is if it was sealed with a cork closure.  



2005 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (screwcap)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour.  “Intense aromas of gooseberries and passionfruit introduce this fresh, aromatic full bodied wine. The palate combines excellent texture and mouthfeel with complex melon and citrus flavours, finishing with that lingering classic summer grass character of Sauvignon Blanc.”
• Silver medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, November 2005
• 4 Stars – Recommended by Winestate Magazine, July 2006
• 4 Stars – Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2006
Neil's 2010 comments
Lively citru aromas, salty minerality on the palate with crisp lime and gooseberry flavours. A mouthwatering juicy finish. This wine has improved with some age and is now a very good wine drinking beautifully. 



2006 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (screwcap)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. “Intense aromas of gooseberries and passionfruit introduce this fresh, aromatic full bodied wine. The palate combines excellent texture and mouthfeel with abundant melon and citrus flavours, followed by a long lingering crisp apple finish.”
• 5 Stars - Cuisine Magazine, December 2006
• 5 Stars – Michael Coopers Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2007
• Highly commended – Sydney International Wine Competition November 2006
• Silver medal – Royal Easter Show Wine Awards, March 2007
• Silver medal – New World Wine Awards, July 2007
• Bronze medal – Liquorland Top 100 Wine Competition, October 2006
• Bronze medal – New Zealand International Wine Awards, September 2006
• Bronze medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, November 2006
• 3 Stars – Recommended by Winestate Magazine, November 2006
Neil's 2010 comments
It started as a very good wine and remains so. Aromas and flavours of crisp aspargus and gooseberry, a medium to full palate weight with a long, lingering spicy finish. 


2007 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (screwcap)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. “Intense aromas of passionfruit and sweet citrus introduce this fresh, aromatic full bodied wine. The palate is well balanced with concentrated gooseberry and citrus minerality, finishing with that lingering classic summer grass character of Sauvignon Blanc.”
• One Of The Ten Best White Wines From The New World – The Independent, UK
• Gold medal – Liquorland Top 100 Wine Competition, October 2007
• Gold medal – New Zealand International Wine Show, September 2007
• 5 Stars – Michael Cooper’s Buyers Guide to N Z Wines 2008
• 5 Stars – Winestate Magazine, May 2008
• 93 Points – Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine, March 2008
• 91 Points – Bob Campbell, Taste Magazine
• Silver medal – Air New Zealand Wine Awards, November 2007
• Silver medal – Royal Easter Show Wine Awards, February2008
• Bronze medal – Bragato Wine Awards, August 2007
Neil's 2010 comments
A touch of riesling-like petroleum and asparagus on the nose with rich and lush concentrated fruit flavours. That familiar dry minerality with a touch of nettle in the finish make it a delightfully complex wine. The awards this wine recieved speak volumes about the wine when it was made and the screwcap closure means those qualities are still there.


2008 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (screwcap)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. “Intense aromas of passionfruit and sweet citrus introduce this fresh, aromatic full bodied wine. The palate is well balanced with lifted gooseberry and citrus characters, threaded minerality and a long lingering summer grass finish.”
• 4 ½ Stars – Sam Kim, Wine Orbit
• 4 Stars – Michael Coopers Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2009
• 4 Stars (88 Points) – Bob Campbell, October 2008
• 4 Stars – Winestate Magazine, Regional Tasting 2009
• Silver medal – Bragato Wine Awards, August 2008
• Silver medal – New Zealand International Wine Show, September 2008
• Bronze medal – Royal Easter Wine Awards, March 2009
Neil's 2010 comments
A vibrant lime flavoured citrus palate with firm gooseberry characters. Great balance between fruit intensity, acidity and minerality make this super drinking now and it shows all the hallmarks of being another wine that will age well.


2009 Nelson Sauvignon Blanc (screwcap)
Original Winery Tasting Notes and awards
Pale straw colour. “Wonderful aromas of passionfruit and citrus introduce this fresh, aromatic full bodied wine. The palate is well balanced with lifted citrus and gooseberry characters, threaded minerality, and that characteristic dry grass finish of Sauvignon Blanc.”
• 4 Stars – Michael Coopers Buyers Guide to New Zealand Wines 2010
• 4 Stars – Winestate Magazine, Recent Release Tasting, 2010
• Bronze medal – Liquorland Top 100 Wine Competition, October 2009
• Bronze medal - Royal International Aromatic Wine Competition, October 2009
Neil's 2010 comments
Current release - young, fresh and vibrant, bursting with lush gooseberry fruit and lashings of crisp lemon/lime acidity. Salty minerality once again shows in the palate structure. More super drinking!